But if the anti-gluten craze is new, fear of bread is not. For the last century and a half of our history we?ve been intermittently spasmed by fears over bread. In the 1920s and '30s, a bread panic called amylophobia swept the land, boosted by a leopard-skin-wearing diet guru named Bernarr MacFadden who toured the country and called bread the ?staff of death.? Throughout the last century, fierce debates over white versus whole wheat pendulummed the nation?s eating habits back and forth. With ?the rise of industrial bakeries, white bread was evidence of scientific progress, its very whiteness visual proof that it had been made by machines rather than dirty hands. But within decades, white bread was accused of causing deformities. ?The whiter the flour the more rapidly it leads to the grave,? one expert observed. And through it all, just as now, whether or not one ate bread was as much a public as a personal act, declaring one?s social status and indeed, one?s moral rectitude.
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